Au Bon Coin – Not Such a Good Corner

A disappointing meal in Alsace (mercifully rare) and a restorative recipe for onion tart

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Favourite Holiday Wines (sparklers and still whites)

Before slinking off to the bottle bank with the evidence of our Christmas excesses, I had fun fishing bottles out of the wheelie bin, reliving the memories of the ones we especially relished and which we’ll buy again if the opportunity arises – and making a a mental note of which ones not to bother… Continue reading Favourite Holiday Wines (sparklers and still whites)

Matchmaking in Alsace – Riesling with food

Towards the end of November each year, Thierry Meyer of Oenothèque Alsace plunges down into his cellar in Strasbourg to emerge with armfuls of trusty, dusty bottles. At the same time, chef Jean-Philippe Guggenbuhl starts leafing through his recipe books at La Taverne Alsacienne in Ingersheim near Colmar. Together they come up with a spectacular… Continue reading Matchmaking in Alsace – Riesling with food

Asparagus: white or green?

Even after 30 years living in the Upper Rhine region where white asparagus rules, I have to admit green asparagus is still the one that does it for me. I love everything about the green: its fresh colour, assertive flavour and crunchy texture. Best of all, unlike the white varieties, it doesn’t need peeling. All… Continue reading Asparagus: white or green?

Tarte aux pommes à l’alsacienne

Great to be reminded of Laurence Faller’s classic apple tart à l’alsacienne, after a tasting in the kitchen (copper pans, wood-fired oven, big oak refectory table) at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg earlier this week. Laurence uses big burnished Boskoop cooking apples that keep their shape after baking. You can use any good dessert apple (Cox’s… Continue reading Tarte aux pommes à l’alsacienne